The embroidery process begins with placing gold and silver threads in parallel rows on the fabric and then securing them to it with silk or cotton threads.
Two main methods of sewing are used: zardusi-zaminduzi (solid) and zardusi-gulduzi (floral). When using the zarduzi-zaminduzi technique, the background is completely sewn with gilded silver; the golden thread is superimposed on the flooring of thin cords. The technical technique of zarduzi-gulduzi was developed in the early twentieth century. Elements of the pattern are cut from thick paper, cardboard, less often – leather, they are applied to the fabric, tightly stretched on the tabouret, and they are fixed and trimmered with gold or silver thread.
Over the centuries, three basic types of composition were formed in gold-embroidered art: daukur, butador and darkham. The basis of the decoration in the composition daukur is the ornamented gold-embroidered edging kur. Butador is distinguished by sewing the entire central field with individual bushes or other patterns at some distance from each other. The ornament of the central field in the composition darkham is a continuous pattern. Its contours are trimmed with the takhrir technique (frame) – with a thin cord of gold twisted threads, or kobuli (Kabul sewing) – threads in the form of small round interconnected loops. The framing border, obligatory in clothes and large decorative items, is formed on both sides by narrow scalloped obi-poncha stripes.
You can learn more about the topic in the book-album "The Collection of the State Museum of the History of Uzbekistan" (Part 2, Volume XXVII) in the series "Сultural legacy of Uzbekistan in the world collections".
The general sponsor of the project is the oilfield services company Eriell-Group.
