Karakalpak arabek nose rings kept in the Albion collection

Nose rings arabek are rare pieces of Karakalpak jewellery that are present in the Albion Collection.

It would not be an exaggeration to say that this collection of nose rings is one of the world’s biggest and most diverse. Formerly a common type of adornment for women of all ages in some parts of Central Asia, in particular, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan and East Turkmenistan, nose rings went out of fashion by the mid-20th century. Currently, they are worn traditionally only in a few villages in Kashkadarya Province of Uzbekistan inhabited by ethnic Arabs.

Traditionally, arabeks (Tajik latibini) were rings 1 – 2 cm in diameter with manycolored beads strung on them. One of its commonest forms was a thin metal disc in the form of the sun or a flower attached to a crosswise piece of wire. A square bead emerald in color known as latva tosh (a protecting stone) in the center of the ring’s bottom and an ornamental metal spiral that went beyond its circumference were the distinguishing features of many arabeks. Both elements had protective functions (probably, the spiral initially symbolised a snake): like many other types of jewellery in Central Asia, arabeks were used as amulets that protected the woman’s face and nostrils from evil spirits.

Coral and turquoise were often used in Karakalpak nose rings (arebek, әребек). Also they featured specific designs not found in other regions. Piruza kasly arebek (a ring from turquoise) consists of three tiny stones embedded in a triangular plate on the inside of the wire. The triangle is a polysemantic emblem resembling at the same time an arrow (a protective symbol) and a woman’s lap (a symbol of fertility). Another version of the Karakalpak nose ring had no direct analogues and included a small disc made of a brass alloy (in the centre of the ring), always decorated with eight radiating relief stamped petals (repoussé).

You can learn more about the topic in the book-album "The Cultural legacy of Uzbekistan in private collections of the USA and Canada" (volume XXXI) in the series "Cultural Legacy of Uzbekistan in the World Collections".

The main sponsor of the project is the oilfield services company Eriell-Group.

Karakalpak arabek nose rings kept in the Albion collection
Karakalpak arabek nose rings kept in the Albion collection