However, due to the widespread patterns and common types of stitches, it can sometimes be challenging to determine the precise affiliation of an embroidery to a particular school.
Most of the motifs in Suzani are inspired by the colors of nature and often interpreted as reflections of cultic and magical themes. While it is difficult today to ascertain the original meaning and symbolism that have developed over the centuries and cultures, field studies emphasize the remarkable memory and interpretive skills of the weavers. The primary symbols in the forms of embroidery are fertility, abundance, and even motifs reflecting hardship. These patterns, as a legacy of pre-Islamic cultures, pay homage to the Almighty nature.
All these aspects are united by the distinctive "Uzbek" factor, which encourages both diversity and similarity. The reason lies in the unified culture of the khanates of the 18th and 19th centuries, in the multicultural heritage intertwined with the frameworks and conventions of Islamic art, and in the "globalization of cotton textiles." In fact, Central Asia was located not only on the historically famous Silk Road, which connected China with Persia, Turkey, and other countries, but also on the less known "Cotton Road," which was influenced by Indian textiles.
For this reason, Uzbek textile traditions have been influenced by various artistic trends, finding their reflection in the art of Suzani.
You can learn more about the topic in the book-album "The Cultural legacy of Uzbekistan in Italian Collections" (volume XXXII) in the series "Cultural Legacy of Uzbekistan in the World Collections".
The main sponsor of the project is the oilfield services company Eriell-Group.
Traditions and Symbolism in the art of Suzani
The art of Suzani likely emerged in the Central Asian khanates in the mid-18th century. It is typically classified into several schools: the Bukhara school (including Nurota, Shahrisabz, Karshi, and other cities), the Samarkand school (with centers like Urgut, Tashkent, and Pskent), and the Fergana Valley school, which encompasses its settlements.