All three museums have their own collection traditions corresponding to their different histories. The focus in Leipzig is more on ceramics, and in Dresden on textile products, while the small collection in Herrnhut includes only a few objects from Uzbekistan. The majority of the pieces were originally purchased from the private collection of the Leipzig graphic artist and painter Gerd Thielemann.
A special place in Uzbek textile culture is occupied by large embroideries, particularly the suzanis. The name covers a variety of textiles differing greatly in size and purpose, but the most common kinds are large decorative pieces that usually served as wall hangings or coverings for the bridal bed. Both nomadic and sedentary peoples practiced the art of embroidery. However, the large embroidered coverings under discussion achieved wider production among settled oasis inhabitants. The territory where they were found coincides approximately with modern Uzbekistan (with the exception of Khorezm) and northern Tajikistan. Suzanis – the word comes from the Perian suzan – needle, and means needlework – were an important element in a bride’s dowry. When a girl was born her mother started embroidering; later the daughter joined in the work, and as the wedding approached, if the required number of embroideries were not ready, female relatives and neighbors were asked to help”.
In the past, the color scheme used for embroideries would indicate their place of origin. The combination of red and black was used especially in Samarkand, for instance, while green and red colors on a white background would indicate Bukhara. Embroidery was done using local silk, although cotton or wool threads were employed occasionally. In the case of large suzanis, individual strips were embroidered separately and then sewn together.
Gerd Thielemann’s journey in 2002 convinced him that embroidery had enjoyed an upsurge in popularity in Uzbekistan during the last decade. Previously he had found it difficult to add a suzani to his collection. Many women worked in agriculture or industry in Soviet times and thus had little or no time to continue the old tradition. Nowadays, notwithstanding the processes of Europeanization, Uzbeks had maintained their traditional domestic amenities. In many instances, the factory-produced objects mandatory for decoration of the house have been replaced by handmade embroidered textiles.
You can learn more about the topic in the book-album "Collections of the Federal Republic of Germany" (volume XI) in the series "Cultural Legacy of Uzbekistan in the World Collections".
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