Initially, the collector m anaged to obtain a completely worn hat tumak, the base of a saukele, which needed be restored. How the team of the leading restorers of the Russian Museum of Ethnography in Saint Petersburg headed by V. L. Zheltova saved, cleaned and restored the item – an operation that took them many years to complete – deserves a special story.
The saukele, known to be a part of the Karakalpak culture since very ancient times, performs several functions: a historical helmet-like hat, an inseparable part of a bride’s ritual wedding dress, an example of inimitable jewellery and embroidery and a most valuable source of information about the views of this steppe people.
The term saukele can be found in the Karakalpak epic Kyrk Kyz (Forty Maidens). Gulaim, the leader of the Karakalpak Amazons, wears a similar hat in battle. According to Greek mythology, the Amazons“ used to make helmets and straps fastened under the chin with their hands. On top of the helmet they put on a felt Phrygian cap4 (pileus) with ear flaps hanging down to the shoulders, a neck flap and straps. This Phrygian cap often was conical. The Amazons used to decorate it with pearls.”
According to E. V. Rtveladze, saukele translates from ancient Khoresmian or Sogdian as a ‘black head’ (sau – black and kala, kele – head). Alongside other versions, this one explains the etymology of the word Karakalpak. E. V. Rtveladze also notes that the name of the last king of Khoresm was Shau (Sau) Shafan, which sounds similar to black (kara).
You can learn more about the topic in the book-album "The Cultural legacy of Uzbekistan in private collections of the USA and Canada" (volume XXXI) in the series "Cultural Legacy of Uzbekistan in the World Collections".
The main sponsor of the project is the oilfield services company Eriell-Group.
